Known for the Charminar, the Nizams (the sovereigns of Hyderabad State, since 1724), sumptuous biryani, Telugu films, pearls and much more, Hyderabad today is an Indian metropolis having a rich multi-cultural identity. The city has a strong technological face; where the traditional pearl, gunmetal and glass industries still thrive within what could be called the Silicon Valley of India!
Here, the imposing stone walls of the Golconda Fort mingle with the steel and glass of modern high-rise structures and the Purana Pul over the Musi River stands proudly amongst flyovers and multi-lane highways. The skyline is dotted with temple gopurams, domes and minarets while the streets, soaked in the aroma of spicy Andhra cuisine and aromatic biryani, resonate with chaste Telugu and the melodic Dakhni (an amusing mix of Urdu, Telugu and Marathi!) This colourful cultural tapestry is a consequence of the various social and political influences on the land; strong Telugu culture under the Hindu dynasties of the Deccan in the first millennium followed by a different sensibility infused by the Islamic rule from the 13th century onwards up to Indian Independence.
This mixed platter makes Hyderabad a great destination for domestic and international visitors, experienced best on foot as one traverses the narrow, noisy and dusty by lanes of the ‘old city’.
What makes a space perfect for such walks is certainly its capacity to engage all the senses.
The Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation organizes four such walks conceptualized by Conservation Architect Madhu Vottery, that cover most of the landmark architectural examples and cultural spaces within the old city. Three walks conveniently start at the iconic Charminar and proceed in three different directions where one can explore examples of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty (16th and 17th century) as well as the Asaf Jahi period (18th and 19th century). The fourth walk starts on the other side of the Musi River and covers the relatively recent Indo-Saracenic architecture designed by British architects.
Arriving early at the Charminar gives one time to explore this splendid structure, setting the mood for what is to follow. The Charminar was built in 1591, the year Hyderabad was established by its founder Mohhamed Quli Qutb Shah to commemorate, they say, the passing of a dreadful plague. It accommodates a mosque on the western side that has an impressive dome with fluted ornamentation. Made in granite, it has four massive arches on the four sides, which support two floors of rooms and a gallery of archways. 24-metre high minarets on the four corners make the structure striking. It provides a magnificent site, especially when lit up at night.
The Westward Walk...
Takes you through the colourful Laad Bazaar, a haven of glass bangles and women’s accessories, the homeopathy hospital in an old Nizami palace and past the five-storey clock tower near Mehboob Chowk. The market in this chowk is known for metal wares, antique books, traditional biscuits and livestock (hence the name ‘Murgi Chowk’).
The walk continues through the Devdis (residences of the erstwhile nobility), the Shahi Khazana (Pension Office) and culminates at the sprawling Chowmahalla Palace, which is a complex of four palaces built around courtyards, hence the name.
The Northward Walk...
Takes you to the heart of the city founded by the Qutb Shahis, starting with the Jama Masjid, built in 1598 by Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah. It stands on seven arches and is topped by two minarets at each end. The central arch is pointed while the remaining six are multi-cusped.
Then past the Charka man: four majestic gateways placed in four directions; you move on to the busy Patherghatti Market. Built in stone, this structure interestingly portrays a Rajasthani influence.
Past the Dewan Devdi, (residence of Salar Jung, the influential Prime Minister of the Nizam), the walk ends at the Badshahi Ashurkhana, which is a place of mourning and is also one of the most impressive structures in the city.
Built between 1593 and 1596, it displays excellent craftsmanship with carvings and floral motifs in wood. But what is really breathtaking is the resplendent array of enamel tiles of Persian origin.
The Eastward Walk...
Takes you past Nizamia Hospital built in 1929 as a part of the post-flood development plans under the last Nizam and was the main center of Unani (a form of traditional medicine practiced in the Middle-East and South-Asian countries) and Ayurvedic practice. Then you move on to the Sardar Mahal, which used to be the palace of Sardari Begum, wife of the sixth Nizam and is presently the city corporation’s south zone office.
Then you navigate through the Mir Alam Mandi, a crowded vegetable, fruit and spice market to Purani Haveli, where the walk ends. This was originally built in the Qutb Shahi period, was extended during the Nizam’s rule and is large in scale. The later improvements, which include fountains and tracery windows, show strong European influences.
The Fourth Walk...
This starts from the opposite side of the Musi River at the State Central Library built in 1891. A Buddhist Vihara influences the entrance to this building. Then you pass the Afzal Ganj Gurudwara, which is a testimony to a lesser known chapter in the history of Hyderabad, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh was requested to help fight rebellions in the state and he had obliged. So, the Sikh army built a Gurudwara, which was then relocated to Afzal Ganj.
Then past the Afzal Ganj Mosque, which is neo-Qutb Shahi, you reach the Osmania General Hospital.
You could easily mistake this hospital for yet another palace with its soaring domes and minarets.
In the garden of the hospital, along the river, is the famous tamarind tree. Legend has it that the tree saved many lives during the deluge of 1908.
You then cross over to the southern side of River Musi where you find the erstwhile Victoria Maternity Hospital. Presently owned by the High Court, this structure too soars proudly above the skyline. The walk formally ends at the City College. All three structures, with their domes, arches and turrets stand tall as the most splendid examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture designed by British architects for the Nizams.
One falls in love with a city as one walks its streets, attempts the language, tastes the food and soaks in the customs. So, when in Hyderabad, after a steaming hot Irani chai and some traditional Osmania biscuits, plunge into history, pocket a few strands of pearls, some bangles and you are ready to smack your lips with some authentic Hyderabadi flavour.
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