The sun rising over the holy waters of the River Ganges, with the pilgrims in the foreground taking the ceremonial dip; a vibrant skyline of temple spires interspersed with onion-shaped mosque domes set behind bathing and burning ghats; sounds of chants and holy men in uncommon garbs; street corners offering steaming hot masala chai and fragrant Benaresi paan; glittering brocades and the sound of the shehnai. All this and much more await you in Varanasi, once called Benares and also known as Kashi.
Dating back over 3,000 years, Varanasi is the oldest, continuously inhabited city of the world. It gets its name from Varuna and Assi, the tributaries of the Ganga, between which it stretches. Ganga, revered as the fluid essence of Lord Shiva himself, is the mainstay of the city and has influenced it culturally, socially and architecturally. Narrow, serpentine alleyways, all thickly dotted with shrines, monasteries, shops and homes traverse the part of the city closest to the river and culminate in bathing ghats on the river’s bank.
Ghats are stepped embankments that allow devotees to perform their numerous rituals by the river and also allow a sizeable spectator seating.
These alleyways are dense with the sounds and smells, legend and lore, rites and rituals, all practiced over the three millennia of its existence. No wonder Mark Twain remarked, “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”
Considered the spiritual capital of India, the city offers tours on foot, on bicycle and by boat.
One could do the tour of the alley of pilgrims a little before sunrise and follow the chanting pilgrims through the serpentine paths onto the bathing ghats where they take their ceremonial dip in the holy waters. Against the sound of temple bells and the call of prayer from the nearby mosque, one could also pass through the vibrantly coloured stalls selling offerings to God and end up at the ‘golden temple’: the celebrated Kashi Vishwanath shrine, dedicated to Shiva, the principal deity of Varanasi. It holds the first of the jyotirlingas, the sacred shafts of light in the universe. There are hundreds of shrines, small and big, tucked in the labyrinth of the city, and for the pilgrim who seeks the blessings of all of them it may take a few days. Past the Bengali tola, a street of Bengalis, one can discover the hidden Mother Kali shrine and end up at the Dasaswamedha ghat where, legend says, Lord Brahma sacrificed ten horses to welcome Lord Shiva.
On the ghats one discovers the rites and rituals related to Hinduism: the aarti of the holy river, cremation of the dead and rituals for the departed souls, all are performed here. The Ganga aarti, performed late evening, is a magical experience. Superbly choreographed, it is indeed a scintillating performance of colour, sound and fire. The countless paper boats with a lamp and other offerings placed on the waters is a sight to behold and one that will remain a memory forever!
The river-related experiences of Varanasi can also be savoured by boat. The ‘Subah-e-Benares’ is the boat ride at the crack of dawn, when the devotees flock to the bathing ghats. The golden rays of the rising sun, reflecting in the waters dotted with devout pilgrims, can be enjoyed along with the tales told by the boatman, about the history of the ghats dedicated to either mythological figures or the kings who patronised them. One could also take the boat ride across the river for a view of the Ramnagar Fort, the palace and the bathing ghat of the royal family of Benares who ruled the city from a distance. In the late evenings too, the boat rides provide a splendid view of the Ganga aarti and the myriad floating lamps.
Cremations are performed on the Harishchandra and Manakarnika ghats, and never for a moment do the pyres go out. This has earned Varanasi the name of ‘Mahashamsana’, Shiva’s great cremation ground. As the sick and dying choose to die here to attain moksha, religious scholar Diana Eck observes, “Death in Kashi is not a feared death, for here the ordinary God of Death, the frightful Yama, has no jurisdiction. Death in Kashi is death known and faced, transformed and transcended.”
A walk near the southern embankment of the city, the Assi ghat, takes you to the sacred Gauri Kedareshwar pond, the temple built by the 16th century poet Tulsidas – who penned the Ramcharitmanas – and a hidden Sun temple.
No wonder Mark Twain remarked, “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”
Bazaars in the northern alleys are a riot of colour and a gastronomical delight. Colourful images of Gods and Goddesses, the local weaves accented in gold and the smells of rabdi, jalebi, kachoris and much more can stir the soul as well as the stomach! As you traverse these, you could get lost in the oldest sites of the city. One could also visit the weaver alleys, the residential district of the traditional Ansari weavers. As one approaches these narrow paths, amidst resounding beats of the looms, and peeps into the dimly lit courtyards of the houses, one is struck by the sheer volume of fabric woven in a day in Varanasi: the celebrated Benaresis!
Music in Varanasi is linked to the ancient Puranik legends and the tradition is strongly embedded in the Benaresi gharana of Hindustani music. This soil has produced medieval poets like Kabir and Ravidas and a contemporary artist like Ustad Bismillah Khan. One could sample this rich legacy by taking a music tour; take a private lesson, be in conversation with the artist about the instrument and music or be an audience to a customised performance.
In contemporary India, Varanasi is readying itself to be a smart city. With the political attention it has gained in recent times, there is much speculation about how modern urban concepts will be fitted into this ancient city evolving much on its own terms, guided by staunch beliefs and customs. The cleaning of the Ganga, garbage disposal, sanitation and transportation within the old city are the major hurdles to be overcome.
First-time visitors to the city may find themselves initially overwhelmed by sensory stimulation yet, just beneath the surface, many a seeker finds peace and calm. It is a journey many from across the oceans make to seek wisdom and soak in the spiritual legacy of India. Many stay on, but even for those who leave, Varanasi remains with them forever!
All Drawings: Pritha Sardessai
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